Dump trailer

[Nat]

I went out to the shop and took some more pics as more progress has been made. This shows how I have the anchor end cyl mount made. I have a piece of 5" chanel across the subframe on the bottom side at the back of the tongue and another 30" farther back, both are under the subframe. I then ran 2 pieces of 3" chanel from where the tongue crosses the front of the subframe back to the botton of the first 5" chanel. I then ran a piece of 5" chanel flat under these from where the 3" chanel connects to 4" past the rearward chanel. This is where the anchor for the cyl fits. In order for this mount to move it has to push the mount back, and that is stopped by the 3" chanel. The 5" chanel is welded under the subframe and just welding it isn't enough so I made these brackets to give me more welding surface. They weld inside the subframe and weld vertically to the cross chanel. I hope this pic shows what I mean. later, Nat

[Nat]

The live end anchor is shown in this pic. It is a 5"chanel welded across the main frame. I welded the mounting lug to the chanel and then welded a 4 X 3/8" flatbar from the chanel connecting the lug, the 5" chanel and the next forward cross member. Then the floor will be welded to all of this. In order for it to move it would have to bend the 4 X 3/8 plateand the 5" chanel and the 2X2 cross member and shear the welds where the floor is welded down. By welding it to the floor I actually am making a beam that is 12 foot high as the floor is welded to each and every cross member. I hope this pic show it more clear. Later, Nat

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] A small piece of flat bar welded to the back side of that live end channel and extending over to the next crossmember is all it would take to stop rotation. Weld the flat bar with the flat side vertical of course. It would sort of be like the heavy piece that the cylinder attaches to was stuck clear through the channel and welded to the next crossmember. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] One flat bar on edge right where that battery is would perfectly bridge between the two channels and stop rotation. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

[Nat]

Dave I welded 2 pieces of 3X 2"angle extending out from the back of the "live end"at an angle going under the next cross member and connecting to the outside frame rails. Now I know it won't rotate and it can't push the chanel back.

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Yeah, .... I'm visualizing that......it'll definitely do what needs to be done [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[Pat]

Say, Nat & Dave (et al), What do y'all think of the idea of making a dump box to be added when required as an accessory to my 12,000 LB gross weight all steel util trailer? I would want all the hydraulics built into the dump box so it was not with the trailer when the box was removed. This will take up a little bit of the available volume but I think I will be weight limited not volume limited since I don't forsee hauling low density cargo.

The tare on my trailer is a tad under 2000 so with the weight of the dump box added to the mix I should be able to safely dump a payload of at least about 8000 LBS or a bit more.

If I dump over the back (originally considered a side dump) I could install some jacks in the back to stabilize it and prevent too much negative tongue weight.

I should think a "socket" (depression) to retain the lower end of the dump cylinder should work fine with no permanent connection to the cylinder at the bottom end since the rig would be power up and gravity down.

With the "ignition" switch of my Dodge/Cummins pick up in the run position a solenoid connects the paralleled 12 volt starting batts with the 220 amp 12 volt batt I have in the form of 2 each 6 volt golf cart batts mounted in the service body. These can be tapped to provide the "juice" to run an electricallyl powered hydraulic pump. Every time you "run" the truck it charges the golf cart batts or if you leave it running you tap into the capacity of the two starting batts as well so powering the pump should not be a problem. Alternator is rated well over 100 amps.

I think this should be feasible but have no direct experience and NEED some reassuring consultation.

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[egon]

Entirely feasable. Just a skid you winch on and off that contains the ram and box.

At 8000 pounds and asumming granular material I'd just put a big inverted v in the middle of the box and have opening side plates with a manual latch. Wouldn't require all that extra equipment.

The 8000 pounds would translate to approximately three yards of granular material so room isn't a problem.

Egon [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[Nat]

Pat, that sounds like the in bed dumps that are made for pickups. A friend of mine had one that went in the bed of a truck and would dump 4000 lbs. It had a pump/valve/res/motor hooked to a scissor hoist. I didn't know he was getting rid of it or I would have bought it. He sold it for 500.00
This unit just slide in the back of a truck, and you could make one that slide on a trailer just as well. You could make some brackets that would allow you to bolt it in and remove them to take it out. I would think it would be the same as building a trailer except no tires/wheels/axles to buy and no tongue. Don't you have a loader on your tractor? Just lift the front and back the trailer under it and let the front down and drive the tractor around to the back and lift and push.
I have a 5" bore 2 stage dump cyl that you can have, I'll be out that way week after next, Let me know. BTW it is to much for an electric pump unless you build an aux. resevior. I put it on the trailer I'm building and it would run out of hyd fluid just as the second stage was starting.
BTW I got it done today except painting and putting the side boards on. I'm going to do that tommorow, I'll take some action pics then.

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] That's a great idea. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] How about this twist. You make a removable "patch" in the rear area of the trailer deck that the material can flow though. The dump section is short enough to where it will end at the open area, and that way you can avoid the outrigger problem. It doesn't take much of a dump body to haul several tons. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] I secretly am always on the lookout for a steel tank like a 500 gallon propane tank that I can cut up and make into a drop-in-slide-in you name it dump bed for my pickup. You no doubt have seen debris trucks that are made from old boilers cut in half horizontally. The electrical system that you describe is exactly the same as the one I devised for an electric hoist that I had on my service truck. The starting batteries of the truck were isolated from the hoist battery group by a solenoid. Once the truck engine started, an oil pressure switch fed current to the solenoid which closed and connected all the batteries together. The idea was that on extended repair jobs we didn't want to inadvertently use up so much battery life hoisting that we couldn't crank up and go home. Of course on the way home that big Leece-Neville alternator pumped plenty of juice back into those batteries. [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]