pole barn girt nails

[arhuranna]

I'm making plans for a 30x40 pole barn. What size nail or screw would be best for attaching the girts to the posts? Also wondered if anyone had made their own trusses?

Regards,

Mitch

[mike120]

I use galvanized deck nails (with the ridges)....4X6 treated posts and 2X8s for the girts and yes, I've built trusses. They are a pain to put up unless you have a post-top winch or a crane. Be sure you use galvanized nails, bolts, etc. The treated lumber will eat non-galvanized connectors pretty quickly.

[arhuranna]

Thanks Mike,

It seems like they used big ringe shanked nails like the type to build corrals in the past. As I look at the cleary and Morton buildings I think they use a frameing nailer and 3 1/2" nails. I think I will use deck screws.

Regards,

Mitch

[MDSteve]

I use the framing nailer 2 1/2 inches mine also came with Polebarn nails 40d 5" nails. I had never heard of them until I got my materials. Grip is the maker.

Steve

[Pat]

Ring shank nails hold very well, about on a par with screws and cost less and go in faster, especially with a power nailer.

I'm getting ready to do some repairs to my hay barn and ring shank nails got the nod. Among other things I will install a couple "rubbing strakes" at the height of large calves and momma cows so they don't push directly on the galvanized corugated skin metal.

Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[Adron]

I built a 24 x 48' pole barn last year used ring shank nails about 3 ½" long they seemed to hold real well. Hadn't planned on it but ended up making my own trusses as well. Google the lay out and measurements. Used 3/8 plywood on both sides of all the joints both glued and 2" stapled. Make sure you use GOOD lumber on the trusses.

I added about a 10' extension to the round bale spike on the front end loader on my tractor to place the trusses in place. Welded a chain about ½ way up the extension and boomed the chain back to the base. Welded a hook on the end of the boom. Attached the truss to the hook with a slip knot so when it was at least tacked in place, a pull on the rope would release the knot.

I invited about 8 friends over to help me place the trusses figuring about ½ of them would show up. Everyone of them showed up. Talk about too many cooks in the kitchen....Oh well, nobody killed, we all had a good time and I ended up with a barn roof.

[arhuranna]

Thanks Adron,

Did you use a framing nailer or hand nail the girts? I did a google search of trusses but did not come up with a pattern. I want an 8/12 pitch and will probably use a truss mfg. Local price around $1600.00 . I know I could build them for less but the time factor will probably make my decision.I talked with a builder in Colorado and he said to use 40D ring shank and put them in with a palm nailer. This is about a 5" nail, ought to do the job.

Regards,

Mitch

[Adron]

We used a pneumatic framing nailer to tack stuff in place and to put on the purlins (horizontal). However on places that would have a lot of stress, such as the headers that hold the trusses up, we drilled pilot holes and drove big ring shank nails by hand. Palm nailer would probably be handy.

8:12 pitch....? Shouldn't be much snow load on that puppy.

[arhuranna]

Thanks Adron,

Yea, the 8/12 pitch is steep but I want to get the look of the old barn with the loft. I have thought about using rafters and joists and putting in the loft, but I want the full open space on the ground level. I have a 1948 Spartan Mansion travel coach that I am restoring and want the room to work. I am still considering making the main body 20' wide with two enclosed porches each 10 or 12' wide. I don't know that I would use the loft that much and trusses would be faster.

Regards,

Mitch

[Adron]

Have you considered a Gambrel roof?