Tablesaw blade rubs against table

[GaryM]

If it's used as a blade stiffner, you could put it on the side with the nut and it would do the same job without changing the blade's location with respect to the filler plate.

[Hank]

As a last resort, you could simply make a new table insert out of wood. When you wind the blade up through it, the new slot will be ready-made for your saw [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[GaryM]

That's true too. I have several commercial "solid" inserts that are zero clearance because you install the plate then raise the blade through it.

Depending on the brand of saw, and availability of plates, that's a good option.

[Hank]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
availability of plates

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Availability?? [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] I've made dozens out of just wood. But the brand of saw can be an issue. Some are not well-suited to a "solid" plate (full thickness, as opposed to a metal one with a hollow backside that only rests on four points). On some saws, the arbor assembly comes up close to the top. I've had to modify some wood inserts with a chisel a bit on the backside to make them work. I always did like a wood (or any zero clearance) insert for certain tasks as it minimizes tearout.

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] About a week ago I bought a used Monkey Ward 12" table saw. It already had the extra "blade stabilizers" in place on each side of the blade. The blade clearance to the trap plate seems about normal. What you ought to do is be sure that you don't have an alignment problem from transport. Be sure to measure blade-to-miter-slot on the operator side of the blade and then rotate the blade and measure from the SAME TOOTH to the miter slot on the back side of the blade.....just to be sure. Most saws have oversize holes that hold the trunion to the table so you can move the saw to get the alignment right. When you get finished aligning the blade and then aligning the rip fence,there should be JUST A SCOOCH of angle on the rip fence and it should be ever so slightly away from the blade at the rear. Im talking a teensy tiny bit here, barely measurable....just so the fence doesn't go TOWARD the blade in the back. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

[Bird]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
just so the fence doesn't go TOWARD the blade in the back

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Yep, that does make for a lot of work. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] It just occurred to me that the entire saw trunion may actually be slid sideways just a frackle. The mounting holes in that trunion almost HAVE to be oversize so that you CAN effect a good adjustment, and if that is the case you could theoretically have a situation where the trunion is positioned all the way to the edge of the holes in ONE direction, and even though it was perfectly parallel to the miter slots on the table, it would actually be offset slightly.....maybe enough to get the blade a little too close to the trap plate [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] OR......this could be a case of manufacturing tolerances building up all in one direction. You may need to correct that by dropping the trunion assembly out and filing those holes. It's no big deal, really, it's your saw and you can file it if you want to. I just checked my Monkey Ward saw manual, and the original exploded view shows NO INSIDE WASHER since the surface of the clutch is what contacts that side of the blade. It has after-market blade stabilizers on it right now but it did not come with any such thing. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]