Our pump is kicking on much more often than I'm used to. Flush the toilet a couple of times, run a little water in the sink, and it kicks on. Do ya'll have any ideas about what could be causing this? It doesn't appear to be water logged.
Our pump is kicking on much more often than I'm used to. Flush the toilet a couple of times, run a little water in the sink, and it kicks on. Do ya'll have any ideas about what could be causing this? It doesn't appear to be water logged.
Hondo, I'd suspect a blown pressure tank bladder. Or, if you got an older system, the tank probably doesn't have enough of a charge in it. The tank pressure, when empty of water, should be 2 lbs below the kick on pressure.
<font color="red">So others may live</font>
I concur with Mike. Sounds like there isn't enough air in the tank to keep the water pressure up after a few gallons are used. Try reducing the water in the tank/increasing the air head and that should solve your problem.
on this same topic .... can one add a pressure tank in series instead of removing the old one? I've been thinking, for a long time, of replacing or augmenting the tank in the crawlspace ... and the problem with replacing is the fact that the current one has the pump sitting up on top of it. It would be a big hassle (in a crawlspace) to try and remove the saddle and try to make it fit on another tank ... si I was thinking it "should" be possible to just add a new tank and hook it (replace the elbow at the tank with a tee) ....??
it's a shame that common sense isn't
You should be able to put a second tank in series with the first, although it would really be in parallel unless you put a one way valve between the two tanks. I installed 2 bladder type tanks because I figured I'd have 2x the capacity in a power failer and to take the load off my pump because it'll have to start up less frequently. I just put a 't' and stuch the 2 tanks on it.
One thing, though. If the old tank has no pressure, the water may just sit in there and get stale.
Wingnut -
I guess my question would be why do you want to replace or augment?
If you simply want more capacity, it sounds like you could do what BrainP was saying, although he makes a good point about "stale" H20. (By definition both tanks will have the same pressure if connected by a 'T' fitting, even if one had an air head/functional bladder and the other one didn't. I understand where he's coming from here though - that your water could get stale if one tank isn't functioning properly.)
If you're in to doing a little more modification, if you connected the two tanks air heads together as well as putting a "T" in where the water inlet is, you could avoid the "stale water" problem because it would equalize the air heads where as the "T" equalize the overall system pressure. (It would remain a "closed system" with this mod.)
Just one thing to consider - although the pump will run less often, it will run for a longer duration. (Depending on the pump, this may or may not be "healthier" for it.)
If however you are having problems with the "short cycling" of your pump, it may very well simply need air added to it (regardless of if it has a bladder or not.) Should be an easy fix if you have a compressor/air tank.
Lots of good points posted already. I have had two times when my pump was cycling excessivley.
The first time the pipe down into the well that connected to the pump, had sprung a leak. This will cause your pump to recycle a lot, and can burn the pump out. It also can cause a short in the electrical system, because the excess cycling can cause the wiring to "rub" against the well wall and short it out.
If you ever do "pull" the pump to check your pipe, wiring or the pump itself, make sure you physically check ALL the wiring, to make sure there are no worn spots that could give out even after putting in a brand new pump.
My second problem with excess pump cycling was due to a crack in a connector, located about 2 feet underground near the well head. This leak actually had gone on for a very long time. I finally had to dig it up and found the water pooling up. Somone (prior) owner had used a PVC fitting, and should have used brass. In Upstate NY cold weather can often crack a fitting.
In other words, it may not simply be a "capacity" issue, but could be caused by malfunction of the system.
Hope this helps.
Hakim Chishti
Staff/Moderator
Again on this same topic
Has anyone installed a device such as This from Flexcon Industries . It is supposed to reduce the pump cycling. For example, when you're taking a shower or watering the garden the pressure will decrease until the pressure tank reaches the pump cut-in pressure and then the full pressure of the pump will be supplied to the shower head/garden hose until such time as you turn off the shower/hose and then the flow will be directed to re-charge the pressure tank.
Sounds like a good idea - wondering if anyone has experience. I'm thinking about it since my WellRite tank has a blown bladder and needs to be replaced (under warranty) so I' considerint upgrading the control.
WVBill
You might check your foot valve. If it leaks down slowly it will cause your pump to run to keep the pressure up in the tank. Check and see if your pump kicks on when no water is being run, if so your foot valve is leaking. You will have to pull the suction line to access the foot valve and replace it.
Just trying to avoid doing excessive work down in the crawlspace, Ranchman ... dislike working down there any more than I have to .... I took a quick look awhile ago and didn't see an air connection for the current tank ... and figured it was likely under the saddle for the pump. I'm assuming that it must have a bladder since the house is only 10 years old ... maybe assuming isn't appropriate. I did have a pressure tank many years ago where I had to add air thru a fitting in the water line .... but have seen a bladderless unit for years. So, since I can't get to the air valve easily, I was just going to add a tank .... but can appreciate the idea of stale water. So, if I need to add a new tank, I guess I put in a plug quickly (to avoid losing too much water - ballast) in the old and just pipe to the new.
thanks for the advice, guys.
pete
it's a shame that common sense isn't
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