Well, we named the truck Ethan, after a famous Vermonter of long ago. Got him up on the lift today and found things in remarkably good shape for being 46 years old! Barely used parts that look like they were installed just before it was put away for storage in 1977. Looks like the last person to drive it ran over a large boulder: bent front axle, bent idler arm, dented gas tank, bent drive shaft...and as luck would have it these are all parts in perfect condition on the 55 parts truck sitting next to the garage!
Just light surface rust on the frame. If I had a couple of weeks off I could have this truck ready for paint in no time!
I second what RobS said about the master cylinder. Please consider replacing it with the split system unit, especially if you are making this into a semi-daily driver. The results are not pleasant when you lose any connection or pressure in a single reservoir system. For me personally, I always suggest disc brakes on the front too, but the drum units work OK. However, even with good drum units there is a big difference in stopping when replaced with calipers.
Also, look at the fuel tank very closely. I do not like to use any type of internal fuel tank coating because it is so difficult to get good long-term adhesion of the coating to the tank internal surfaces. If there is any problem with corrosion - get another tank. If it's minor, you may be able to get the tank cleaned at a good radiator shop. In the long run you will be happier with a clean or new tank so you won't forever be chasing clogged fuel lines and filters. I also prefer to install an inline filter between the tank and the fuel pump - keeps debris out of the pump as well as the carb.
Enjoy your truck [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
Chevdog -- As luck would have it, the wrecked 55 we use for parts has a split system, so that will be rolled into the "new" truck as well. That modification is so important I've noticed that judges do not mark you down for making the change. Not that we'll ever show our sheep-crap hauler, just an indication of how vital that change is considered in the antique vehicle world.
I've given a lot of thought to doing the disc brake/IFS change. For a daily fair-weather driver it makes a lot of sense. Also, the dimensions of the front end on the Dodge Aspen/Plymouth Volare from the 70's are exactly the same, so the swap would be as simple as they come. [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
As for coating the tank, do you know of anyone who has used the POR-15 gas tank sealer kit? They say right up front that you want to put 90% of your effort into getting the interior of the tank clean, as dirt/varnish/sludge left behind will cause failure of the sealer.
Pete, I've heard an even split on good/bad experiences with the POR product. The POR paints and coatings are good, but unfortunately only as good as the conditions that they are applied under. That's why I look at it for down the road - if it's a 50-50 deal on the component, then I replace it now - much easier and cheaper than having to go back later on. Gas tanks I do not recoat - I replace if corroded or crudded up. Just my own personal rule from having been bitten a time or two.
Sounds like a good deal on the IFS/brake installation - just be sure to get that subframe alignment right!
That is one fine truck, Boonie. [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img] My Dad bought one with only 1200 miles on it in 1959 [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] and we had it fer years. I even re-powered it with a '56 Chrysler 354 hemi [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img] when the six-cylinder engine wore out. I also stuck a set of 3.33's under it from a highway patrol car. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] I was putting a thousand miles a month on that pickup even before I finally got a driver's license in the summer of '59. [img]/forums/images/icons/blush.gif[/img] Our pickup was a four-speed, and had the little window in back. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] BY FAR, the achilles heel was the front axle. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img] I "sleeved" the tie rod for more durability, and we had to straighten the axle once, but it was still a handful at 60 miles per hour [img]/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] as most of those straight front axle pickups tended to be. That hemi Chrysler [img]/forums/images/icons/cool.gif[/img] JUST MISSED the steering column with those fat valve covers!! [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
Thanks, CJ. I think I have all the parts needed to make this work now. Lots of rebuilding to do. The inline fuel filter was full of rust. Pulled the fuel pump off and saw a lot of crud in there too. Rebuilt that and the carb. Pulled off the gas tank and rather than messing with it myself just sent it off to be done professionally; the seams were starting to come undone, so figured I'd let the pros mess with it.
That 8 3/4 rear end bolted right up after the perches were moved in a bit. I need to shorten the spare driveshaft an inch, and swap out one end to mate up with the PowerFlite tranny. The only thing that's really giving me a hard time is trying to get the good drag link off the parts truck. The cotter pin ends rusted off, but the pin itself is still in place. I'm debating right now whether to drill it out or just muscle the nut off with brute force. Working outside at 10 below tends to lower my tolerance for stuck fasteners! [img]/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]
You could try a very small torch [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] since the thin cotter will melt way before the big threaded end even thinks of getting hot. [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Warm it up and it may shrink back enough when it cools to get it loose in the hole. It'll feel good at ten below zero too. [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] I have a micro torch that I can attach to my regular torch leads just for stuff like that.
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