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Thread: Changing Shocks

  1. #1
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    Changing Shocks

    A noob question.... [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

    In order to pass the PA State Inspection, my faithful 1991 Chevy K1500 needed 2 front shocks since they were leaking. My mechanic said that while the rear shocks passed inspection, I should think about replacing them as well, given the big difference the new front shocks made.

    Can I just crawl under there and use my impact wrench to unbolt the existing shocks and bolt the new ones in or do I have to jack the car up, use jack stands, etc.?

  2. #2

    Re: Changing Shocks

    when i chngd shocks on my s10, i didn't jack it up. you might have to work the shock up or down to line up the holes, but its no big deal. if you own an impact wrench you shouldnt have any probs.

  3. #3
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    Re: Changing Shocks

    There are times when the nuts and bolts become very rusted. Nut breakers or hot wrenches may be required. Also on some vehicles the bolt is not a standard size and must be purchased from the dealership.

    Should be no problem unless there is rust. [ don't ask how I know this ] [img]/forums/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

    Egon

  4. #4
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    Re: Changing Shocks

    Tough question to answer, Mike, if you've never changed shocks before. You can do some of them without jacking them up, and an impact wrench is a great help, but on some vehicles, it's nearly impossible to get to the upper end of the shock with jacking it up a bit, and on some vehicles, there's no way you can get to the top end with your impact wrench.

    ONE WORD OF CAUTION: If you've never done it before, and you jack up the vehicle with a wheel off the ground, in many cases, the springs will let the wheel down as far as the shock will extend. And when the shock bolts are removed, the axle and wheel will drop! You don't want to be under it when it does.

  5. #5
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    Re: Changing Shocks

    Thanks for all the great replies. I will check the upper shock mounts and see what they look like and if I can get the impact gun on them. I have an air ratchet too (small and large versions) so that might work if the gun doesn't fit.

    My goal is to do this without having to use jack stands. The truck, particularly the rear end, sits pretty far off the ground, so getting under the truck wont be a problem.

  6. #6
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    Re: Changing Shocks

    Don't jack that sucker up unless you have no alternative. Safer to use ramps if you need more clearance, even improvised from boards to get a couple extra inches of space to work.

    [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
    "I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"

  7. #7
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    Re: Changing Shocks

    You got some good advice here. (as usual from these folks)

    I'll add, sometimes the top bolt is so frozen it has to be cut off with a hacksaw. DAMHIKT. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img]

    Be prepared to spend at least half a day on the 4 shocks.
    Gary
    Bluegrass Music ...
    Finger-pickin' good!

  8. #8
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    Re: Changing Shocks

    A each day for a couple days before you want to take them off squirt the bolts/nuts with some PB Blaster or brake fluid. Will make it easier to break them loose.

    I have used the brake fluid on exhaust manifold studs/nuts with good results. Course you can't drive it for a couple days or you'll burn it off. That won't be a problem with the shocks.

    Gary

  9. #9
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    Re: Changing Shocks

    What's a good brand of shock?

    Remember, this is a 1991 K1500 with 115,000 miles on it. [img]/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] The primary use of this truck is hauling a horse trailer, hauling hay, hauling feed and, since it's 4wd, occasional use in the snow. The current rear shocks are Gabriel.

  10. #10
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    Re: Changing Shocks

    Mike, the two brand names I'm most familiar with are Gabriel and Monroe. Monroe is what we sold when I was a kid and my dad owned an auto parts store; not sure what their warranty is now, but way back then, Monroes didn't have to be defective. They'd replace them or refund your money if you just decided you didn't like them after installing them. Of course, some of the shocks with other names on them are made by one or the other of those two, I believe. Sears sells Monroe now, and I think (not sure) NAPA has shocks with their own name on them, but made by Gabriel. There may be others just as good, but personally, I'd look for shocks made by either of those two manufacturers and probably go with the one I could get for the best price. Of course, there are several different "grades" of shocks made by each manufacturer, so as with a lot of products, when comparing prices, you have to make sure you're comparing apples to apples.

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