Type of pump for 60 meter well?

[Pat]

dubman, Hi, lets clarify a few terms, OK? Domestic water but you aren't sure you will drink it. Is it for flush toilets and or what? If you brush your teeth or bathe in it you will always ingest a little.

The tank in the attic... is it a storage tank for gravity feed to points of consumption or is the water heater?

These days filters are available to make most "reasonable" water fully safe and palatable so you could likely do OK with your well water and filters as needed.

I am probably not the most qualified here to make pump recommendations but as to ease of installation... The pump is attached to a pipe and is lowered into the well. A rope, polyethelene is a good variety, should be used to help support the pumps weight. YOu can lower the pump into the well and add sections of pipe as you do. You need to make a choice, if plastic pipe is used as is done here in the majority of cases, do you want to glue the joints together or glue on threaded couplers. There are a lot of successful instalations of both kinds. For experiences folks the glued joints are not a big deal when some day you need to "pull" the well for maint or pump replacement. For the rest of us, threaded joints make it easy. With threeaded joints you can take each section apart as you pull the pump back toward the surface. Otherwise, to my way of thinking it gets a bit iffy (altyhough I did it more or less with success, ONCE.)

When you "pull" a well with glued joints the pipe comes up and ends up in a huge spiral on the ground. Seems to work fine for a lotl of folks but it make me nervous. The time we pulled my well I had more or less experienced help and he wanted to leave the pipe in one section. It had threaded joints. It broke in a couple places at the joints when spiraling out across the ground.

You will need some sort of "well house" to enclose the plumbing at the well head. It should have a removable roof to permit handling the pipe in long sections. Here our PVC pipe comes in 20 ft lengths (6 meters). It is also a good idea to build the well house so that there is a place to attach a pulley or block and tackle directly above the well. A pipe of at least 2-3 inches in diameter horizontal above the well is handy as you can take a few wraps of the rope around it and make lt real easy to lower the pump and pipe with good control.

It is good to have this "capstan" several feet above the well's opening. This way you can lead the rope supporting the pipe and pump around a pulley (turning block) to a winch or vehicle and save a lot of manual effort pulling the well or lowering the pump and pipe into the hole. I have done it manually in a more shallow well than yours and I was younger then and it was WORK.

As to the pump... I'd try Google for submerged well pumps. Be sure you select something compatible with your supplied electrical power. I'm guessing you are 220-240 Volts AC and probably 50 Hz but anyway you want a compatible pump.

If you woiuld feel more comfortable getting a second (or third of rforth or...) after you find a few candidates of interest to you let the guys here take a look. As I said, there are experienced experts here as regards well pumps.

[img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] For pumping into an atmospheric tank my first choice would be a sub. When pumping at low TDH, it's quite easy to lose prime on a jet. A jet would need to be adjusted with the back pressure valve and when you are working with a well that has a lot of drawdown, where do you set the valve? A sub would deliver more consistently at the varable depth that he is expecting. The downside is that the sub does require more submerged depth because of the length of the motor, and you need to allow for some "fill-in" at the bottom of the well over time so that's another little bit of well depth sacrificed. Other than that, a sub has all of the advantages. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] A pump that small can run with full voltage through the switches, both the float level switch at the tank and the low-level shut-off at the well. Both switch systems permit remote mounting in any convenient location. Forget the pump house and just be sure to provide an elevated surface for the sanitary seal at the well head. As a long time pump guy, I have to say that I hate pump houses and I especially hate tearing them down to get to the pump. Also on my list of hates are wells that were drilled in what was once an open space and then later enclosed by gardens, buildings, chicken yards, even home expansions.....yes, I found a pump behind the living room couch once.... [img]/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] There's nothing like backing a big pump repair rig into a flower garden behind the garage to set up and pull a deepwell, and then have no place to highline the joints of pipe. [img]/forums/images/icons/frown.gif[/img]

[turnkey4099]

Good advice all the way!! Especially about the pump house. Feed through a pitless adaptor underground to the house.

Subject of an atmosphere tank in the attic. Really nothing wrong with it but you wind up with very little pressure. You only get .43 psi per foot rise. Then the installation of a pressure tank is simpler, just the pressure switch is all that is needed (with low pressure cut-off). In a tank you have to have floats, level sensor etc.

Harry K

[CJDave]

[img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] That, plus: (1) what happens if the atmospheric tank accidentally overflows; and (2) what about structural requirements to accomodate that extra weight in the attic. A bladder tank in a downstairs closet is actually a better way to go, and as mentioned, it simplifies the on-off switching/safety shut-down arrangement considerably. [img]/forums/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

[jimbrown]

Ahh sir. I think you are getting some good advice but much of it is missdirected. Most if not all of the advice is from people who have never lived in europe and have no concept of how different things are done there than here in the USA. I think you should look at the websites for water pumps to get an idea of the different types of pumps that are available. My experience is that in Europe this type of thing is not done by indviduals very often and that most of the pump type installers will be used to installing only commercial pumps. A 12 inch well here in the USA would almost always be a commercial well or a large irragation well. Most home/ personal wells are 8 inches or less. Many only 4 inches. If you have water at 7 meters a simple jet pump should work. I have no idea but I suspect that if you try to buy from a US source the import tax will be excessive. It seems this may be some sort of summer house. I would like to suggest that you do an internet search for "solar pumps" and look thru the items. I think a simple solar pump might meet your needs and there are several that are made in Europe or Japan that that might meet your needs and not be excessive in cost. My personal experience that buying things like well pipe and water proof wire ect are much more difficult in Europe than here in the US. I can buy those things at almost any "Home Store" and there are at least 20 well drillers/ pump installers within 100 kilometers of my house. I supect this is not true in your case. The advatange of a solar pump would be that you could install it yourself assuming that you can buy the pipe and wire and it is not illegal. Here in the US in most places it is legal for an owner to do all of his own plumbing, electrical wireing and telphone wiring. My experience that this is not true in most of Europe.

[dubman]

I assume I would need to analyse the water to see if it is dirinkable. Yes I have a floating switch in the attic tank plus an overflow pipe going out through the exterior wall..just in case...
Thank you.