I'm making plans for a 30x40 pole barn. What size nail or screw would be best for attaching the girts to the posts? Also wondered if anyone had made their own trusses?
Regards,
Mitch
I'm making plans for a 30x40 pole barn. What size nail or screw would be best for attaching the girts to the posts? Also wondered if anyone had made their own trusses?
Regards,
Mitch
I use galvanized deck nails (with the ridges)....4X6 treated posts and 2X8s for the girts and yes, I've built trusses. They are a pain to put up unless you have a post-top winch or a crane. Be sure you use galvanized nails, bolts, etc. The treated lumber will eat non-galvanized connectors pretty quickly.
Thanks Mike,
It seems like they used big ringe shanked nails like the type to build corrals in the past. As I look at the cleary and Morton buildings I think they use a frameing nailer and 3 1/2" nails. I think I will use deck screws.
Regards,
Mitch
I use the framing nailer 2 1/2 inches mine also came with Polebarn nails 40d 5" nails. I had never heard of them until I got my materials. Grip is the maker.
Steve
Ring shank nails hold very well, about on a par with screws and cost less and go in faster, especially with a power nailer.
I'm getting ready to do some repairs to my hay barn and ring shank nails got the nod. Among other things I will install a couple "rubbing strakes" at the height of large calves and momma cows so they don't push directly on the galvanized corugated skin metal.
Pat [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
"I'm not from your planet, monkey boy!"
I built a 24 x 48' pole barn last year used ring shank nails about 3 ½" long they seemed to hold real well. Hadn't planned on it but ended up making my own trusses as well. Google the lay out and measurements. Used 3/8 plywood on both sides of all the joints both glued and 2" stapled. Make sure you use GOOD lumber on the trusses.
I added about a 10' extension to the round bale spike on the front end loader on my tractor to place the trusses in place. Welded a chain about ½ way up the extension and boomed the chain back to the base. Welded a hook on the end of the boom. Attached the truss to the hook with a slip knot so when it was at least tacked in place, a pull on the rope would release the knot.
I invited about 8 friends over to help me place the trusses figuring about ½ of them would show up. Everyone of them showed up. Talk about too many cooks in the kitchen....Oh well, nobody killed, we all had a good time and I ended up with a barn roof.
Adron
You can have it good, quick or cheap. Pick 2.
Thanks Adron,
Did you use a framing nailer or hand nail the girts? I did a google search of trusses but did not come up with a pattern. I want an 8/12 pitch and will probably use a truss mfg. Local price around $1600.00 . I know I could build them for less but the time factor will probably make my decision.I talked with a builder in Colorado and he said to use 40D ring shank and put them in with a palm nailer. This is about a 5" nail, ought to do the job.
Regards,
Mitch
We used a pneumatic framing nailer to tack stuff in place and to put on the purlins (horizontal). However on places that would have a lot of stress, such as the headers that hold the trusses up, we drilled pilot holes and drove big ring shank nails by hand. Palm nailer would probably be handy.
8:12 pitch....? Shouldn't be much snow load on that puppy.
Adron
You can have it good, quick or cheap. Pick 2.
Thanks Adron,
Yea, the 8/12 pitch is steep but I want to get the look of the old barn with the loft. I have thought about using rafters and joists and putting in the loft, but I want the full open space on the ground level. I have a 1948 Spartan Mansion travel coach that I am restoring and want the room to work. I am still considering making the main body 20' wide with two enclosed porches each 10 or 12' wide. I don't know that I would use the loft that much and trusses would be faster.
Regards,
Mitch
Have you considered a Gambrel roof?
Adron
You can have it good, quick or cheap. Pick 2.